First, see my list of items attached for reference.
For free flight, Control Line or R/C Assist systems you will need the following:
Coil
Solid-state ignition unit (SSIGN, SSIGN2 or SSIGNCO) *
High Tension Lead, HTRC for R/C and HTFF for free flight or CL.
For R/C a 5 amp (micro) switch in the positive lead from the battery can be used to stop the engine using the throttle servo. (I don’t sell them).
Battery power
I use 3 NIMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) 700 MAH cells in series for the power supply.
Make sure you order them with solder tabs and solder them together in series for 3.6V. NiCads will give the same result. ALSO, one 3.7V LIPO will work. 500 MAH or more will do the job. Make sure you are familiar with Lipo charging, etc.
I also use three-pin Deans connectors to connect the battery to the system. (Tower Hobby) or your local hobby shop. Check out your local hobby shop for a charger.
I don’t supply them. Try service@all-battery.com on the web for 700 MAH NIMH Batteries, #10300-1 Tenergy 2/3AA 700 MAH Flat top rechargeable W/Tabs and solder them in series for 3.6V. 510-979-9969
Make sure all the connections are soldered properly.
You will also need a battery charger if using the NIMH or a Nicad battery. (Your local hobby shop)
You may use 2 AA Alkaline batteries in series, to produce 3 volts in a battery box to keep it simple
Quite a few are now using single-cell 3.7V LIPO batteries, 200 MAH or more. Be sure you know about using these LIPO’s as far as charging, etc.
This should get you running ignition engines like the pro’s do!
Larry Davidson
samchamp@jetbroadband.com
* Most use a solid-state ignition unit which saves the arcing and pitting of the points and doesn’t need a condenser, however you can use just the coil and condenser (I don’t sell condensers) The SSIGN2 has Hall effect & points instructions. All the SSIGN, SSIGN2 and SSIGNCO come with hook up instructions.
*The SSIGNCO will save the coils and points if the points are closed longer than 2 seconds, by cutting off the power from the battery. Just turn the prop again and it’s ready to go again. This is my most popular unit lately. Most popular: SSIGNCO + Coil+ Hi-Tension lead
You rock Larry. Thanks for your website. Always wanted to build a sparky……
Sounds good James. Let me nkow if I can help,
Larry
Do you have any of the Black colored ignition coils to sell? I like the` classic look and only fly free` flight.
If you are talking about the Modelectric coils, yes, I do have some that are used but good condition. Same price as my coils. Let me know, ok?
Thanks,
Larry
Hi. I’m new to vintage ignition engine collecting. Just to make sure of what I’m doing. All I need to make my ignition engines run is either your coil and a condensor with battery pack and lead wire, or your coil and ssignco setup (which is for protecting coil and points) with battery and lead wire? I want to make sure and do it right. Thanks
Hi there, l have a few old spark model engines l would love to bring back to life. I need an ignition set up what do you recommend?, Glen
Hi Glen,
Here’s the three items Which I’ve been shipping all over the world for many years:
SSIGNCO, Coil & either HTRC Lead if using for R/C or the HTFF Lead.
Thanks,
Larry
Hi Larry.
Allan Brown from UK.
I have used your products in the past and have been very happy with them.
I recent years getting stuff from the US has been a problem for both customer and supplier.
Have you had these problems sending goods to UK? You have stuff I need. Have you supplied stuff the the UK lately, is it stright forward?
Hi Allan,
No, I haven’t had a problem shipping to the UK but right now I’m having some problems with my emails on my computer.
Let me know if you get this, OK?
Thanks,
Larry
Hello,
I have a SSIGNCO ignition and when I hooked it up with a 1S LiPo, after turning on the switch and turning the engine over, I only get one spark, then none. After turning it off and on again, it skips a spark, but again only once and then nothing. Could you please advise me what could be wrong?
Thank you
Jiri
Hi,
Sorry to hear that. How long did it work before this happened? I see you ordered back in November 2022.
At first guess it seems like maybe you have some wiring issue.
Check all your wiring and see if there’s a problem there.
Never ran into that problem with all I have sold around the world,
Larry
Hello,
Yes, I’ve had it longer, but I just plugged it in yesterday. I think the fault may be on my side, I just don’t know where. I’ve wired it according to the drawing. The only thing I can think of is to use a different cable from the ignition coil to the spark plug. I have a regular copper one in there now, so I’ll try to buy a high voltage one with a resistor. Could that help?
Jiri
You can try that but don’t think that’s the answer.
When I make these I test them on a fixture and they all work just fine.
You might try 3 NIMH or 3 Nicad batteries in series and see if that works.
Also make sure your points are working.
Let me know, ok?
Thanks,
Larry
Hi Larry
I’m building a ’47 Super Zilch C/L model from plans powered by an Ohlsson 60 spark ignition engine. My father started one that he never completed back in the ’50s and I’m now trying to replicate this as closely as possible. I will buy one of your ‘Modelectric coils’ (I’m sure your own Larry’s version is excellent but I do remember the Modelectric installed in the old man’s plus you affirm a “great spark” for the Modelectric on your website), the ‘OK Hi Tension lead’ (as it clips to the Modelectric) but I seek your advice regarding the next step. Normally, of course, you would expect a capacitor (0.2 mF) to be connected in to the ignition circuit but I notice your ‘Ignition cut-off w’solid state Ignition combined’ unit only “Needs a coil”. So, question – does the SSIGNCO, a unit I can see the benefit of, do away with the capacitor?
Regards
Peter
Hi Peter,
Just saw your email today.
Yes you don’t use the capacitor with my SSIGNCO unit.
Thanks for the order. It’s on the way,
Larry